Article of apparel



gully 3, 3.934. A, ROSEN 1,964,961

ART I CLE OF APPAREL Filed Aug. 19, 1933 INVENTOR //ez Rosen ATTORNEY Patented Jul-y 3, 1934 narran stares param carica ARTICLE 0F APPAREL Alex Rosen, New York, N. Y.

Application August 19,

10 Claims.

This. invention relates to articles of apparel.

Specifically, the invention to be discussed has relation to the construction of shirts and/or collars, where the collar is made a permanent part of the shirt or where the collar may, at will, be separated from the shirt. In a more specific aspect, the invention is intended to cure one of the ills resident in the Well-known soft shirt where the collar is attached permanently as a part of the shirt. Shirts of this class, when placed in use, even where, during manufacture, they have been subjected to the best methods of preshrinking, have been found to suier an appreciable amount or" shrinkage from laundering or other causes. In the case where the collar is a permanent part of the shirt, with the slightest amount of shrinkage, the usual result is that the shirt is no longer of any use for that particular wearer. Likewise, in the case of the soft collar to be attached to a shirt, shrinkage takes place which limits its period of usefulness.

It is an object of the invention to provide a construction which, when applied to the collarattached type of soit shirt or to the soft collar, will make possible adjustment of the eiective girth of the neckband portion oi the collar to compensate for shrinkage occurring when such articles have been placed in use.

In the case o the detachable collars, a feature generally found to be undesirable is that the shirt-button, extending through the tabs at the front of the collar, protrudes sharply. In many cases, it has been known to work itself into a position where it is undesirably displayed. It is an object of the invention to construct a collar in which the shirt-button is guarded against any such action or display, without, however, in any way affecting the efficiency of the attaching means.

With the customary type of soft collar, it is a well recognized fact that the buttonholes provided are, in many cases, not, when attached over collar buttons of a desirably short height, of suicient effect or gripping power to sustain the collar against separation from the collar button. As a necessary result, such collars make necessary the use of buttons of relatively great height, or of some additional, external outside attaching means, such as collar pins, to assure that the collar tabs be sustained in position for proper wear. It is an object o the invention to provide, for such collars, means associated directly with the collar by which the use of a collar button of small height is made possible. It is an object of the invention to assure, by such means, that substantially all circumferential stress be applied not to the collar button itself, but to means made a part of the collar, the button then serving simply as a locating device.

In a specic application of the invention, where the collar is, for all intents and purposes, an integral part or the shirt, the normal margins of the neck-bands may be extended into a pair of tabs. In one of the tabs, a slit is formed; through this slit the opposed tab may be inserted. Fastening devices such as buttons may be secured on the neck-band in position to cooperate with the complementary devices carried by the tabs which have thus been brought into superposed relation to the fastening devices on the neck-band. In thi` relationship, the related fastening devices are secured together and then the collar is iirmly retained closed. In the result which follows, there is a neck-band having no button appearing at the opening between the tabs of the collar. By providing on each tab a plurality oi" fastening devices such as just described, and on the neck band itself, one or more of the complementary devices, or vice versa, means are provided whereby a simple and expedient adjustment for the neck-band may be made a part o'f the shirt.

In the case where the collar is detachable from the shirt, then, in addition to the details set forth, one ci the tabs, and preferably the one not slitted as described, since, in most cases, it will be positioned behind the slitted tab, has an opening provided to receive the iront collar button This opening is in the nature of a long slit, providing means whereby the collar may be moved longitudinally, the collar button meanwhile restraining the tab and the collar of which it forms a part against vertical movement.

Other objects oi this invention will hereinafter be set forth, or will be apparent from the description and the drawing, in which are illustrated embodiments of articles of manufacture carrying out the invention.

The invention, however, is not intended to be restricted to any particular construction or arrangement oi parts for such an article or articles of manufacture, or to any particular application of such construction, or to any specic manner of use, or to any oi various details thereof herein shown and described, as the same may be modied in Various particulars, or be applied in many varied relations, without departing from the spirit and scope of the claimed invention, the practical embodiments herein illustrated and described being merely some of various forms and modifications in which the, invention might be, embodied.

On the drawing, in which the same reference characters refer to the same parts throughout, and in which are disclosed illustrative embodiments.

Fig. 1 is an elevational View of a shirt having a collar construction embodying the invention, the tabs of the collar being turned upwardly to disclose details of the construction;

Fig. 2 is an elevational view of a collar construction in accordance with certain elements of the invention, portions of the collar being broken away to illustrate details of the construction;

Fig. 3 is an elevational View of a collar such as shown in Fig. 2, the collar being distended into a flat condition, and portions being broken away to illustrate the internal construction thereof;

Fig. 4 is a Vertical, transverse cross-sectional View, on the line 4 4 of Fig. l; and

Fig. 5 is a vertical, transverse cross-sectional view, on the line 5 5 of Fig. 2,.

In illustrating the invention, there is first considered ai shirt construction 16, as show-n on the drawing, which, at the bottom portion 12, is separatedto provide customary Vseamed edges 14 and 16;. lAtthese edges, in the usual construction, means such as buttonholes 18 and buttons 20 are provided to facilitate securing the edges together, when the shirt is worn. At the top of the shirt, formed to encircle the neck in the usual manner, is a neck-band 22. |Ivhe portions ofthe neck-band which form the upper extremity of the shirt may be made up in any Wellknown manner including a collar-forming flap 24. This flap, when turned down against the neck-band, cooperates therewith to define a collar `26 with whichY may be the associated necktie ,inthe customary manner.

For the purposes of this invention, the neckband vis extended beyond both edges 14 and 16, forming a pair of tabs 28 and 30. Each of these tabs maj/,have provided thereon an element of affastening device 32. In the construction illustrated, thefeleinent takes the form of buttonholes 34 and 36, cut through tabsv 28 and 3Q, respectively, at ,their ends. The neck-band, at a predetermined distance removed inwardly from edge 16,1 and 'also preferably removed from point 38 atjvhich, the adjacent end edge 40 of collarforming flap 24 meetsthe neck-band, is formed with a vertically extending sli-t 42. The slit is of a Awidth sufficient to permit Ytab 28v of the' opposededge 14Ato be inserted therethrough and to beeri'tenldedinthe inannerto be described.. On

the, neck-band, spaced inwardly along the neckband from'thepoint of projection of each of the tabs, and preferablyv positioned so that, when the collar-forming tab is folded downwardly into collar-forming position, they will be concealed by the nap, are secured a plurality of the complementary elements of fastening devices 32, in this case buttons 44. These buttons, as will be described, are intended for a particular association with buttonholes 34 and 36.

Whenvthekshirt is donned, and the fastening devices along edges 14 and 16 have been secured properly, and in accordance with the prearranged construction of the shirt and the tabs, tab 28 reageer extending end of tab is, in like manner, caughtA over one of its associated buttons 44. Which of the buttons will so be engaged will be determined in accordance with the girth of the neck upon which the shirt neck-band is positioned. As the neck-band itself shrinks in use, adjustment may be accomplished by positioning the buttonholes over any ofthe available buttons, or additionalv buttons may be secured in place to assure a` properly comfortable, collar-forming member.

In the case of collar 46, shown in Figs. 2 and 3, which is intended to be attached to and detached from a shirt at will, the manner of construction may be that of any well-known manufacture, as, for instance, where a plurality of layers of`material 48, and 52 are sewed together to form neck-band 54, while other layers 56 and 58 for external facing and an internal stiffening layer 60 are bound together to form a iiap 62 which, when folded down against the neckband, defines the ordinary soft collar.

In a manner similar to the construction of the shirt, the neck-band terminates in a pair of tabs 64 and 66, buttonholes 68 and 70 being located immediately adjacent the respective ends. On that portion of the neck-band carrying tab 66 is formed a longitudinal slit 72, this slit being substantially in the position of the customary buttonhole slit applied for receiving the front collar button when attaching collars of this character in the usual manner. In this particular instance, the slit is positioned practically directly below the intersection of the end edge '74 of flap 62 with the neck-band, all the layers 48, 50 and 52 being sewed together at the edges of the slit 110 in its formation. On that portion of the neckband from which tab 64 extends, on the other hand, is formed a vertical slit 76.

Inner layer 50 may be terminated short of the ends-of tabs 64 and 66 as the three-ply construc- 1 tion has been found not to be a necessary adjunct for the tabs. Rather, it has been found desirable to reduce bulk at the tabs by terminating layer 50 at points 77 and 79. rlhe layer is then of suflicient length to position three plies of lmaterial I for rear collar buttonhole 78 and slits 'T2 and 76.

When the collar is to be arranged upon a shirt, buttonhole '18 is first slipped over its properly arranged rear collar button. Then, with tab 66 resting upon the front collar button, slit 72 is slipped 125 over that button. 'Iab 66 may now be passed behind tabA 64, and its end be brought up to and inserted into slit '.76 so that the tab may be drawn therethrough. On the neck-band and, in both cases, positioned upon that portion thereof which 1 will be covered up by flap 62 and inwardly from the position of the slits, there are arranged a plurality of buttons 80. When tab 66 is passed through slit 76, it Icornes into position over, and its buttonhole may be engaged over one of, these 1 buttons positioned for that purpose. Then tab 64, which now likewise extends over buttons on thev other portion of the neck-band, may have its buttonhole 68 engaged over a button properly located for that purpose. l Toeffect adjustment for varying neck girths, or by reason of shrinkage of the collar material, is entirely in the hands of the user. According to his desire for comfort, he varies the position of buttonholes 68 and 70 with `relation to their rel spective sets of buttons, that is, one or both tabs may be so adjusted as desired. With such variation in the effective girth of the collar, longitudinal slit 72 will move along over its associated button to compensate for such differences. Addi- 1 tional buttons may be sewed in, as and if desired, to accommodate for greater changes in the girth of the collar as they arise. Tab 64, at all times, provides a guard, extending over the head of the v button which is engaged through slit 72. In this manner, the button is kept out of view, and further is guarded so that it may not, in an undesirable manner, engage with the neck-tie worn and presented in space 82 between the spaced apart end edges 74 and 84. The tensional forces in the material of the collar, instead of being transmitted to the two collar buttons, as in the customary constructions, is taken up, in a collar such as here described, not in any great part by the collar buttons, but, due to the engagement of the tabs, one with the other, these forces are counteracted by buttons 80. Shifts in the collar material are absorbed in friction between the tabs rather than in a sharp tensional force applied to the button engaged through slit 72, the customary manner of functioning.

Many other changes could be effected in the particular articles of manufacture designed, and in the methods of operation set forth, and in specic details thereof, without substantially departing from the invention intended to be dened in the claims, the specific description herein being merely of illustrative and operative embodiments carrying out the spirit of the invention.

What is claimed as new and useful is:

1. An article of apparel comprising a shirt constructed to provide a pair of substantially vertically extending edges, means on the edges for separatably retaining them secured together, and a neck-band for the shirt, the neck-band including a plurality of tabs extending therefrom, the tabs, when the edges are secured together, being positioned in overlapping relationship, the neck-band having a passage therethrough to receive one of the tabs, and means for securing both of the tabs to the neck-band so that tensional forces applied to the neck-band will be resisted by the opposite reaction of both tabs at points removed from each other along the extent of the neck-band.

2. In an article of apparel, a collar construction for a shirt wherein the shirt is constructed to provide a pair of substantially vertically extending edges, the edges having means for separably retaining them secured together, the collar construction including a neck-band, the neck-band including a plurality of tabs extending therefrom, the tabs, when the edges are secured together, being positioned in overlapping relationship, the neck-band having a passage therethrough to receive one of the tabs, and means for securing both of the tabs to the neck-band so that tensional forces applied to the neck-band will be resisted by the opposite reaction of both tabs at points removed from each other along the extent of the neck-band.

3. In an article of apparel, a collar construction for a shirt wherein the shirt is constructed to provide a pair of substantially vertically extending edges, the edges having means for separably retaining them secured together, the collar construction including a neck-band, the neckband including a plurality of tabs extending therefrom, the tabs, when the edges are secured together, being positioned in overlapping relationship, the neck-band having a passage therethrough to receive one of the tabs, means for securing both of the tabs to the neck-band so that tensional forces applied to the neck-band will be resisted by the opposite` reaction of both tabs at points removed from each other along the extent of the neck-band, and a button-receiving means intermediately of one of the tabs.

4. In an article of apparel, a collar construction for a shirt wherein the shirt is constructed to provide a pair of substantially vertically ex tending edges, the edges having means for separably retaining them secured together, the collar construction including a neck-band, the neck-band including a plurality of tabs extending therefrom, the tabs, when the edges are secured together, being positioned in overlapping relationship, the neck-band having a passage therethrough to receive one of the tabs, means for securing both of the tabs to the neckband so that tensional forces applied to the neckband will be resisted by the opposite reaction of both tabs at points removed from each other along the extent of the neck-band, and a button-receiving means intermediately of the tab received through the passage.

5. In an article of apparel, a collar construction for a shirt wherein the shirt is constructed to provide a pair of substantially vertically ex tending edges, the edges having means for separably retaining them secured together, the collar construction including a neck-band, the neckband including a plurality of tabs extending therefrom, the tabs, when the edges are secured together, being positioned in overlapping relationship, the neck-band having a passage therethrough to receive one of the tabs, and means for securing both of the tabs to the neckband so that tensional forces applied to the neckband will be resisted by the opposite reaction of both tabs at points removed from each other along the extent of the neck-band, and a button-receiving means intermediately of the tab received through the passage, the tabs, when overlapped and when the button-receiving means is engaged over a button on the shirt, concealing the button end.

6. An article of apparel comprising a shirt constructed to provide a pair of substantially vertically extending edges, means on the edges for separably retaining them secured together, and a neck-band for the shirt, the neck-band including a plurality of tabs extending therefrom, the tabs, when the edges are secured together, being positioned in overlapping relationship, the neckband having a passage therethrough to receive one of the tabs, and a plurality of securing elements on both of the tabs and the neck-band, said elements, when engaged, transmitting to the neck-band tensional forces in opposite directions at points removed from each other along the extent of the neck-band, one of the elements being engageable with a plurality of opposed elements to adjust the effective perimeter of the neckband.

'7. An article of apparel comprising a shirt constructed to provide a pair of substantially vertically extending edges, means on the edges for separably retaining them secured together, and a neck-band for the shirt, the neck-band including a plurality of tabs extending therefrom, the tabs, when the edges are secured together, being positioned in overlapping relationship, the neckband having a passage therethrough to receive one of the tabs, and a plurality of securing elements on both of the tabs and the neck-band, said elements, when engaged, transmitting to the neck-band tensional forces in opposite directions at points removed from each other along the extent of. the' neck-band, an element on each tab being engageable with a plurality of opposed elements on the neck-band to adjust they effective perimeter of the neck-band.

8. In an article of apparel, a collar construction for a shirt wherein the shirt is constructed to provide a pair of substantiallyl vertically extending edges, the edges having means for separably retaining. them secured together, the collar construction including a neck-band, the neckband including a plurality of tabs extending therefrom, the tabs, when the edges are secured together, being positioned in overlapping relationship, the neck-band having a passage therethrough to receive one of the` tabs, and a plurality of securing elements arranged between both tabs and the neck-band, said elements, when engaged, transmitting to the neck-band tensional forces in opposite directions at points removed from each other along the extent of the neckband, an element on each tab being engageable with a plurality of opposed elements on the neckband toA adjust the effective perimeter of the neck-band, and a button-receiving means intermediately of one of the tabs.

9. In an article of apparel, a collar construction for a shirt wherein the shirt is constructed to provide a pair of substantially vertically extending edges, the edges having means for separably retaining them secured together, the collar construction including a neck-band, the neckband including a plurality of tabs extending therefrom, the tabs, when the edges are secured together, being positioned in overlapping relationship, the neck-band having a passage therethroughr to receive one of the' tabs', and a plural'-1 ity of securing elements arranged between both tabs and the neck-band, said elements, when engaged, transmitting to the neck-band tensional forces in opposite directions at points removed band to adjust the effective perimeter of the neckband, and a button-receiving means intermediatelyV ofi thel tab received: through the passage.

Y 10. In an article of apparel, a collar construction for' a shirt wherein the shirt is constructed to provide a pair of substantially vertically extending edges, the edges having means for separably retaining them secured together, the collar construction including a neck-band, the neck-band including a plurality of tabs extending therefrom, the tabs, when the edges are secured together, being positioned in overlapping relationship, thel neck-band having a passage therethrough to receive one of the tabs and the neck-band, said elements, when engaged, transmitting to the neck-band tensional' forces in opposite directions at points removed from each leef 

